Same thing happened to the 2004 I just bought.
Looked like a twizzler. Rebuilding right now. Could be a bunch of things from what I understand. A transmission is all run by hydraulics so for something to seize and cause it to twist like that probably means that there is a flow issue somewhere, maybe causing the pump to overheat and seize?
Check your coolant to ensure no fluid swap from a burst rad... Then I would pull the valvebody out, and clean the stink out of it. I just took mine apart and found that I had major contamination in the valvebody. Then while its out install the cd4e jr shift kit. It may help as it solves a lot of pressure issues in the tranny and its pretty cheap online(states it will help eliminate oil pump shaft breakage... Hopefully this will help you avoid doing what I am right now. Going on week three and finally just put the tranny and valvebody back together... now on to the engine!
Many years ago, while strolling through a VW dealer shop, I saw several brand new cars with their engines apart. Seems the factory unknowingly installed defective oil pump drive shafts. They broke off and starved the engine of oil. Some of the owners didn't shut the engine down soon enough....
Well I replaced the whole pump this time and it drives now but it slips bad. I checked all the cluches and shit. Could the torque converter be bad mabye. It also has a bad death vibration while drving. Like drive train issues. Any clue
Could be a plethora of things, from something simple to something not so much so. Is it throwing any codes? If you know anyone with a decent code reader hook it up to see if it gives you anything. That's where I would start. If your slipping it could be your clutches are fried and you need to rebuild. Hows the fluid look / smell? Any oily residue in your coolant tank?
I had the same problem twice on the same transmission on a 2007 3.0 4wd. I initially dropped the tranny and pulled the pump to replace the 2-4 band becauseof the very common 2nd gear issue. When I got it back together and fired it up it immediately twisted and broke the shaft. I thought it was because I torqued it too tight and didn't turn the crank by hand to ensure the rod seated properly before starting. So, I dropped it again and pulled the pump, replaced the rod, replaced the pump (the weld on the part the rod sits in broke), torqued it correctly and turned the crank by hand. Got it back together and it again immediately twisted and broke the shaft. I just pulled the whole tyranny from the car and went to the junkyard and pulled a supposed good replacement with a 90 warranty for $200. I'm going to install it this weekend and see how it performs. If it's good I'll tear apart the one that keeps twisting rods and attempt to rebuild it, and hopefully discover why it keeps twisting and breaking rods.