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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I’ve got an 05 Escape 3.0 with a decent enough stereo so I’ve replaced the factory alternator with a JS-Alternators 240 amp unit. The wiring is not plug-n-play so cutting the connector off and wiring in the alt was needed. I get 14.8 volts whether att idle or cruising which is great! Not so great is the constant on dash battery light (JS said this is normal and won’t affect anything other than being annoying) but, I’m concerned how my battery has acid spilling out the side from the top-off plates. Factory is a 4 wire connector but the install only has me using “
You will need to connect the S wire(red wire) on the pigtail to the positive post on the alternator.
The L wire(blue wire) to the LI wire on your factory wiring.
No other wires are used.”
Any thoughts on regulating the voltage and/or what wire(s) to connect to make the computer know I’m charging correctly and the dash light go off?
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I'd get back to JS. 14.8 is above what I consider to be safe for the battery. If you're using an accurate meter, I'd prefer to have it run below 14.5.

As far as the light, you could build a small differential circuit and have it trip the light at whatever over/under voltage you want, but the PCM commands the alternator to charge in these Escapes, so sometimes it's turned down or even off under certain circumstances. If the JS alternator wiring is still under control of the PCM, you will probably get a random flashing light anyway.

John
 

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Hello all. I’ve got an 05 Escape 3.0 with a decent enough stereo so I’ve replaced the factory alternator with a JS-Alternators 240 amp unit. The wiring is not plug-n-play so cutting the connector off and wiring in the alt was needed. I get 14.8 volts whether att idle or cruising which is great! Not so great is the constant on dash battery light (JS said this is normal and won’t affect anything other than being annoying) but, I’m concerned how my battery has acid spilling out the side from the top-off plates. Factory is a 4 wire connector but the install only has me using “
You will need to connect the S wire(red wire) on the pigtail to the positive post on the alternator.
The L wire(blue wire) to the LI wire on your factory wiring.
No other wires are used.”
Seriously man, you got battery acid boiling out??!!!
You better have a fire extinguisher handy. Replace high output alternator with stock alternator immediately

auto mechanics 101, if your alternator is not made for your vehicle, don't install it without major knowledge. Changing the plug isn't going to solve all of your problems. you have more than doubled the output of the factory OEM alternator

I don't know who told you what, but yes, there should be a regulator involved somewhere that prevents overcharging of the battery from occurring. They are usually integral to the correct application of alternator.

you better get yourself a fire extinguisher, or a pair of 50,000 W aircraft landing lights that you can run constantly

I don't know who told you that kind of system needs that kind of juice… They were on crack. Even a winch running under constant load would not require that type of alternator

proper set up involves a secondary battery, not a ridiculously powered alternator for sustained power

be safe my friend! I am not trying to be a jerk or anything
 

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I don't know who told you that kind of system needs that kind of juice…
As a guy who has always run stock audio systems in every car I ever had (other than hanging 8-tracks under dashes in the 70s), I have been amazed at what I hear from cars barely in sight and suspect that the guys who have car stereos that can be heard clearly 1/4 mile away must be drawing ridiculous power from the charging system. Changing audio signals into audible power is very inefficient.

I guess the OP is running such an audio system.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve got a decent stereo installed and initially that was the whole reason for me seeking out more juice from the electrical system. First step was adding a 3.5F capacitor which didn’t help much for the headlights dimming with each heavy drum kick. After that was the alternator upgrade and surprise surprise, I went with the cheapest option. Don’t buy JS alternators, go with a better brand. There ARE options which come plug-n-play but I found that out too late. JS is about useless when it comes to customer support. Yes they helped get it wired but took a ton of back and forth emails. Anywho, the battery receives 14.8 regardless of idle or on throttle and I suspect I am due for a battery replacement/upgrade. That was JS’s solution to the battery issue but I suppose they’re right about needing a new one. Before I spend $300 for an Optima or $400 on an XS battery, I want to make sure the same won’t happen to it!
 

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I’ve got a decent stereo installed and initially that was the whole reason for me seeking out more juice from the electrical system. First step was adding a 3.5F capacitor which didn’t help much for the headlights dimming with each heavy drum kick. After that was the alternator upgrade and surprise surprise, I went with the cheapest option. Don’t buy JS alternators, go with a better brand. There ARE options which come plug-n-play but I found that out too late. JS is about useless when it comes to customer support. Yes they helped get it wired but took a ton of back and forth emails. Anywho, the battery receives 14.8 regardless of idle or on throttle and I suspect I am due for a battery replacement/upgrade. That was JS’s solution to the battery issue but I suppose they’re right about needing a new one. Before I spend $300 for an Optima or $400 on an XS battery, I want to make sure the same won’t happen to it!
A new high CCA battery will lower the impedance of the 12V supply and mitigate any instantaneous sagging from bass kicks.

I still think 14.8 is too high and think any battery charged at that rate will suffer from some heat and outgassing. OTOH, if that's what these competition car audio guys are running then that must be part of the solution for the "performance".

Honestly, maybe some advice from competition car audio groups instead of Escape specific advice might be a better option at this point.

John
 
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