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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

tools needed -
nothing fancy....except for the actual bearing puller which will make pulling off the bearing while hub is still attached to car, no shop press needed .
i used the ASTRO MASTER WHEEL BEARING ADAPTER KIT MODEL 78825 i got from amazon, paid about $130can, much cheaper if in the u.s., price changes so keep an eye on it, more too choose from just make sure the threaded drive bolt is hardened metal, grade 8.
slide hammer w/hub puller
32mm axle nut socket
torque wrench that can do ~220ft/lbs for the axle nut
set of sockets
 

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Well done and thanks for the effort in all 3 latest videos .

Could i ask , can you put in words the Tools name that you used and all that type of stuff either in response to this or underneath the videos ?, maybe even a price one paid at the time just for future reference , and it'll be a bit easier for us that might be looking about , so that one can just copy past it into a search engine .
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well done and thanks for the effort in all 3 latest videos .

Could i ask , can you put in words the Tools name that you used and all that type of stuff either in response to this or underneath the videos ?, maybe even a price one paid at the time just for future reference , and it'll be a bit easier for us that might be looking about , so that one can just copy past it into a search engine .
Cheers
done
 

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Imo vincom you have now made an already good OP to an Excellent OP (y)

Added , btw , i think if one snipped up the axle nut just fairly tight (50-100 foots pounds) at the end , then put on wheel and lower it then do the final torks it will save any damage to the threads whilst using any type of bar , we used to do that type of thing with wheels years ago and i've seen those bars fly out under big tension , anyway either way works so it's not really important .

ps- it looks like $73 out here on Amaz , shipping $100! , no doubt one could find one for the right price (i have no looked) , thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Imo vincom you have now made an already good OP to an Excellent OP (y)

Added , btw , i think if one snipped up the axle nut just fairly tight (50-100 foots pounds) at the end , then put on wheel and lower it then do the final torks it will save any damage to the threads whilst using any type of bar , we used to do that type of thing with wheels years ago and i've seen those bars fly out under big tension , anyway either way works so it's not really important .

ps- it looks like $73 out here on Amaz , shipping $100! , no doubt one could find one for the right price (i have no looked) , thanks
if amazon is the seller or shipper they guarantee your satisfaction for 30 days, they have a pretty good return policy if u decide not to keep it. and once in awhile used ones go on sale
 

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Did my front Rhs one today , what a drama , 1st getting the hub off it would not budge so i took off the knuckle (only 3 more bolts and the ball joint) and belted the crap out of it from the inside then it budged BUT then left the actual shaft outer race on the wheel side , picture was after using a 4" grinder and a cutoff wheel and it practically fell off , then the outer of the bearing took a tremendous amount of effort to just get it to move but also using the mash hammer alternating with the puller finally it popped out real slowly mm by mm .

I purchased the cheap puller version off the bay ($20) figuring out i'm only going to do this job once (actually twice as i'm going to do the Lhs in a few days) , minimal tools here so i use what i have btw , anyway it all went back together easy enough after cleaning up , it must have been those years (2003) that seized it all up? .

Cheers
ps- i just noticed on the video shot picture your race is left on too , same thing here .

Wood Liquid Sculpture Gas Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did my front Rhs one today , what a drama , 1st getting the hub off it would not budge so i took off the knuckle (only 3 more bolts and the ball joint) and belted the crap out of it from the inside then it budged BUT then left the actual shaft outer race on the wheel side , picture was after using a 4" grinder and a cutoff wheel and it practically fell off , then the outer of the bearing took a tremendous amount of effort to just get it to move but also using the mash hammer alternating with the puller finally it popped out real slowly mm by mm .

I purchased the cheap puller version off the bay ($20) figuring out i'm only going to do this job once (actually twice as i'm going to do the Lhs in a few days) , minimal tools here so i use what i have btw , anyway it all went back together easy enough after cleaning up , it must have been those years (2003) that seized it all up? .

Cheers
ps- i just noticed on the video shot picture your race is left on too , same thing here .

View attachment 2088
i knew about the inner race so i bought the hub b4 i started the job, cheap enough to no bother with trying to take off the inner race
 
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