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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is kinda after the fact, since I've already done a cooling system flush....

What engine coolant should be used in a 2002 XLS 4-cyl?
And how does one conclusively determine the correct product to use?

The Owner's Manual says to use Motorcraft Premium Green or Gold, but there's a note that says to "Add the coolant type originally equipped in your vehicle." Well, the vehicle was purchased used, so simply looking at the old coolant won't suffice (I wasn't sure what color it was anyway). I've called Ford USA about this sort of thing in the past, but they always say to contact a dealer. Although I called the dealer, they cannot be depended upon, since the various Ford dealers within our vicinity have provided incorrect info in regards to other vehicle systems (example: several have stated that the manual transmission gear oil never needs to be changed &/or to use automatic transmission oil in the manual transmission). Thanks.

PS: The Ford dealer said to use the green coolant, so I used the Motorcraft Green.
Ford Engine Coolant Frequently Asked Questions
 

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Ford did not make the switch to Hybrid Organic Acid Technology ,H.O.A.T, coolants until [approx] 2004. Chrysler made the move back in 2001, but Ford took a cautious approach to avoid the issues that GM ran into with Dex-Coolant. Dex-Cool is a Organic Acid Technology Coolant and is not compatible with an H.O.A.T based coolant. Also H.O.A.T. has a little bit longer performance life than standard Ethylene Glycol based coolants but should still be changed out every 5 years [versus 3 years for the E.G. based coolants]

Generally speaking, your owners manual calls for Ford "green." Green is usually, not always, E.G. based so you should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I really don't know the difference between the various coolants.

As stated, the Owner's Manual says to use either or... It doesn't specify the green stuff, hence my confusion.

As a side note, the cooling system flush on the XLS seemed easy to me.
Everything was readily accessible & the process went fairly smooth without a hitch, using the Chilton manual as a general guide. For collecting the old coolant I used a section of tubing & a bucket at the radiator drain valve and a large shallow storage container under the engine/thermostat. I rigged up a water hose assy to the radiator nipple & connected a pool vac hose to the disconnected radiator hose to flush, directing the clean water to a dry lawn. Then I flushed the system w 5 gallons of distilled water. Etc etc etc.
 

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Based on many discussions in the past, I believe this was the definitive conclusion. In any case, it's the guidance that I follow:

2002 used standard green 3-year coolant. 2003 transitioned from green to "Ford Gold" 5-year coolant in mid-year.

If your car came with green, stick with green on (up to) a 3-year change cycle. If your car came with Gold, stick with gold (up to) 5-year change cycle.

If you're not sure what your car came with, stick with what's in there now on a 3-year change. If you do a thorough flush, you can upgrade from green to gold, but keep the (up to) 3-year change cycle. IF IT'S ORANGE, GET IT OUT OF THERE QUICK! If you can't tell what color it is, go with Gold.

DO NOT USE orange/Dex-Cool. DO NOT USE "Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant compatible with ANY antifreeze/ coolant".

The easiest/least expensive way to find "Ford Gold" is Zerex G-05 - I buy mine at CarQuest, others have found it at Wal-Mart.

Using the right coolant is really a pain - I have 4 cars and each requires a different coolant.

-SPARKZZ
 

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hurk said:
Then I flushed the system w 5 gallons of distilled water.
This is really the key, aside from using the right coolant. Clean water means a clean cooling system... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's right. There's no sense in having a yucky cooling system. I poured in two 2.5 gallon containers of distilled water, one right after the other without stopping the flow. I wanted to be sure to get a good finishing rinse with it, especially since I wasn't sure how thoroughly the system drains by gravity without removing the engine block plug (I'm pretty sure I located it but I couldn't get a wrench on it - doh). However, after putting everything back together, I was able to add the specified amount of coolant mix. Apparently, there's not much left in the system after draining it by removing the thermostat housing & opening the radiator drain valve.

The job took me a little over a couple of hours. I'm kinda slow on this sort of thing & this was the first time doing the Escape. Also, I had to round up tools, hoses & buckets n stuff.
 

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Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to get me some of that Zerex g-05 , flush the system and start over. thanks! :)
 
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