Cheap(er) ways of replacing/refurbing the traction battery?

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Cheap(er) ways of replacing/refurbing the traction battery?

Postby Tembrant - April 4th, 2020, 12:35 am

I'm quite amazed at those 250 D-cells in the back, 16 years old and still pushing me through mud/rivers/and horrid traffic while still getting 30+ mpg.
However during this pandemic, the fact i have to start the car to keep the battery in balance every 24 hours is getting annoying. When it gets low on Base State of Charge, it's still perfectly drivable(yet extremely slow), still always starts, and never left me stranded. However, I still think it's time to look into options on replacing the pack. The lack of any major regen braking, It beeping at me ALOT when i floor it and the Delta Module voltage spikes (P0A1F-20), and it killing my MPG every time i have to bring it back from a 0.4% BSOC when letting it sit for 3 days.
Especially if it will last another 16 years.

Off the shelf refurb or "new generation cells" cost from 2k to 4k I don't have that kind of money, and spending 2k for a Year warranty on a refurb battery isn't the best idea.
Im seeing even more absurd prices for OEM batteries, however I have no idea if they're new or just leftover stock

So that leaves me with 3 ideas, in order of best to worst
1: Buy "NEW GENERATION" 6v sticks from a reputable shop and install in current pack, I've contacted Greentech about this and they never responded, but truely new manufactured cells should last just as or even longer than the cells made in 2004

2: Get a salvage 2013 Pack and replace the sticks in my own pack, This is a decent idea, Im very sure they'd be compatible as its the same battery without the 'jumpstart' module. However im sure this option would put me back in the same situation after 5 or so years, depending on the date of manufacture of the later gen batteries.

3: Straight up order 250 D cell nimh batteries and assemble the 50 sticks. I do not have the skills or equipment to do this, yet. I'm not even sure if its possible as i don't have measurements of the battery, and if standard ones with the 'nipple' positive would be too large.

4: This is a bad, bad mad max idea. Most of the issues come from the DmV getting higher and higher. From that first image in my post, the BSOC is .4& however the average charge is 41%! This tells me that only a few cells/sticks discharge so much so quickly, FORScan's "balance" service function is very helpful for quickly charging the pack back up to usable levels, however even multiple tries never lowers the DmV significantly for any period of time. Only daily long drives got it to .19v, and oh boy how that made this thing come to life, so much more regen, so much more constant battery boost. The horrible idea is connecting a wire to each battery stick and balancing them regularly. As there would be a permanent 300v+ potential between the farthest two, It would be a large safety risk and involve drilling holes into the battery casing. Including buying something to be able to balance so many batteries.

Anyways! 1 or 2 are the only "doable, not getting myself stuck in a project for weeks" ideas. And i'd like to leave the bad ideas for the less dangerous things I want to do to this HEV. And I have many.
Tembrant
 
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Re: Cheap(er) ways of replacing/refurbing the traction batte

Postby feh2goup - April 6th, 2020, 7:16 pm

I would buy a compatible newer or lower mileage pack from a wrecker. But probably that would run into self-registration issues requiring a Ford dealer to resolve.

How about contacting the nearest ev club for advice and guidance? I'm sure they'd be glad to help.
2009 Escape Hybrid Limited AWD, Black, bought Jan.2013
- replaced ambient temperature sensor
- replaced two hvac blend door acutators
- updated SYNC software
- replaced water pump
- brake job
- replaced steering column
- replaced TPMS sensor
- multiple rear hatch water leaks fixed
- rattle in dashboard resolved as loose bolt in steering column coupler
- replaced underbody a/c lines to rear hvac
- replaced backup sensor
- replaced sway bar links
- replaced one outer tie rod (105,000 miles)
- replaced right front wheel bearing
- replaced ball joints
- another brake job
- replaced a/c condenser
- replaced tailgate latch
- replaced tailgate support struts
- replaced underbody a/c lines to rear hvac (2nd time, $2000 each time)
- replaced driver door keypad
- replaced another outer tie rod
- replaced a/c compressor
- replaced hatch glass hinges
- replaced hatch wiper arm and attachment hardware
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Re: Cheap(er) ways of replacing/refurbing the traction batte

Postby Tembrant - April 8th, 2020, 9:04 pm

Getting a salvage pack seems to be a race against EVERYONE, a recently added hybrid added to a local scrapyard last night had its battery taken out within the 4 hours from opening to me getting there!
The lady even on the phone said "If its been here for less than a month, it should have it still". Looks like I'll be needing to scour the internet even more and getting up to get to places ASAP.

Oh and
But probably that would run into self-registration issues requiring a Ford dealer to resolve

I'm Specifically planning on removing the individual cells from my own battery pack and replacing them with newer/less bad ones because of this very reason.
Tembrant
 
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Joined: October 4th, 2019, 2:48 am
My vehicle: 05 Hybrid AWD
My vehicle's name: Pruis's offroad brother

Re: Cheap(er) ways of replacing/refurbing the traction batte

Postby GatorJ - July 11th, 2020, 8:57 pm

The 2005 FEH HVTB differs from the 2013 in other respects than the jump start circuitry. The major difference is the way it is cooled. 2010-2013 model years lack the AC system to cool the battery, rather they are cooled by cabin air, similar to the Prius.
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