Low Budget off road build with parts list

Suspension, brakes, chassis, subframe, more

Low Budget off road build with parts list

Postby DarkStone06 - February 7th, 2020, 4:52 pm

I've been doing a lot of research over the last couple of weeks on what would be the best bang for the buck suspension mods I could do for my '06 Tribute, & this is what I've come up with.

1. 2" strut spacer lift $47: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Heavy-Duty-Front-2-Leveling-Lift-Kit-FOR-Ford-Escape-Mariner-01-12-4x2-4x4/303367599717?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

These things have already been discussed to death, and the pros/cons thoroughly weighed. They are still, by far, the best way to lift the front of your 01-12 E/M/T; especially if you are on a budget..

2. This is a new one. You can install 1" (or larger) coil spring spacers designed for an '05-13 Nissan Pathfinder, or '04-13 Armada. They are around $57: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-Heavy-Duty-Front-2-Leveling-Lift-Kit-FOR-Ford-Escape-Mariner-01-12-4x2-4x4/303367599717?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I discovered this by looking up coil spring sizes on O'Reilly's website. What I found was actually pretty surprising! If you would rather do a spring lift than use poly, or aluminum spacers then you could use '05-13 Pathfinder V6 rear coil springs instead of buying expensive lift springs ($86-$120 pr.) They are the same ID as stock (4 13/16), and are only 1/8" wider than the stock coils (6 1/4 vs 6 1/8)! You would have to remove a coil or 2 because they are a lot taller than the stock springs, but since they are constant rate that isn't really a big deal.

3. Don't forget the shocks! Most of you know that you can adapt a set of Rancho RS9000 shocks to work on the back of an '01-12 E/M/T, but they are a little on the expensive side ($200+ pr!), & don't give you any additional travel over stock. I found a set of Rubicon Express shocks that range in price from $27-$44 ea that will give you 11" of suspension travel in the rear (stock is 10.25")! They are $27 ea here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5V2GTI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 These are designed as front shocks for a lifted Jeep YJ, or XJ.

You may need to move the ABS wire, and brake lines around a little to make sure that they aren't being strained at full droop. These shocks are 15.7" long compressed (stock is 15.25"), and 26.5" long extended (stock is 25.125"). That's around 1.4" more droop to keep your tires planted on the ground when traversing uneven terrain! These should pair well with those rear coil spring spacers.
Last edited by DarkStone06 on February 10th, 2020, 11:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Lampis Blue 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L 5 speed 4wd RARE!
2013 Ford Flex Limited EB with water/meth
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
2006 Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 70k miles (sold) :'-(
2003 Escape XLT 3.0L AWD 106k miles (sold)
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4wd (traded for Wagoneer)
DarkStone06
 
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Re: Low Budget 2" Front, 1" rear lift parts list

Postby Wrath - February 9th, 2020, 2:39 pm

Interested in seeing this if you do it. With the Rubicon shocks would they give you an additional 1/2" more lift over stock?

These shocks are 15.7" long compressed (stock is 15.25")
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Re: Low Budget 2" Front, 1" rear lift parts list

Postby DarkStone06 - February 10th, 2020, 9:15 am

Wrath wrote:Interested in seeing this if you do it. With the Rubicon shocks would they give you an additional 1/2" more lift over stock?

These shocks are 15.7" long compressed (stock is 15.25")


The shocks don't give lift; they just add down travel to the suspension. The point of the compressed length is to know when the shock bottoms out. If the shock bottoms out before the bump stops then it could blow out the seals in the shock, damage the internal piston, or bend the rod depending on how hard it bottoms out. I THINK 15.7" is close enough to stock to keep that from happening. I'll test it out after I get them installed, and extend the bump stops if necessary. The point of upgrading shocks is to allow the rear suspension to flex a lot more. I figured out that the shocks were the limiting factor on the rear suspension when I was trying to repair a busted passengers side shock tower. I maxed out my jack under the rear diff, and the passengers rear tire was still on the ground with the shock disconnected while the drivers rear was 2" off the ground with the shock connected.

The lift is coming from the coil spring spacers I mentioned. The rear HAS to be lifted if the front is lifted. I'm driving my Tribute with only the front lift installed right now, and it squats bad enough to cause torque steer (front end wobble) under moderate acceleration. I would say that the 1" spacer is required at a minimum to keep that from happening. I'm pretty sure the CV joints wouldn't last long with only a front lift unless you drive like a little old lady, & I don't mean the one from Pasadena. :lol:
Last edited by DarkStone06 on February 10th, 2020, 5:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lampis Blue 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L 5 speed 4wd RARE!
2013 Ford Flex Limited EB with water/meth
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
2006 Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 70k miles (sold) :'-(
2003 Escape XLT 3.0L AWD 106k miles (sold)
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4wd (traded for Wagoneer)
DarkStone06
 
Posts: 102
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Joined: January 31st, 2013, 3:15 pm
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Low Budget Sway Bar Disconnects!

Postby DarkStone06 - February 10th, 2020, 11:19 am

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I just finished making sway bar disconnects to get more flex out of the front suspension on my '05 Tribute. It was a pretty easy project overall, and can be easily duplicated by almost anyone that's looking to improve off road performance on a budget. Step 1: weld the nut from the top link stud to the tab on the strut. Step 2: drill out the threads, then slide the sway bar link stud thru the nut, & squeeze it tightly with the wheels straight. Make sure it is tight up against the strut! Step 3: mark the stud where it meets the head of the nut welded on in step 1. Step 4: Remove the link, put the stud in a vice, or drill press, and drill a hole thru it in the exact spot marked in step 3. It is extremely important to drill the hole as straight as possible! Step 4.1: Now would be a good time to pop the boots off, & grease the joints. Step 5: reinstall the sway bar end link, and put a clip thru the hole drilled in Step 4. The link should be snug with no play with the pin installed. Step 6: Cut a few inches out of a rubber tie down, and bend the metal S hook so that one end will "snap" into the oval hole seen in the picture; pull on it from different angles to make sure it's secure. Punch a hole in each end of the strap with an ice pick, or small screw driver. Slip the rubber strap onto the hook, and put a large key ring with the hitch pin on the other end. You're done! Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Total cost of this project was $0.59 for 2 hitch pins.
Lampis Blue 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L 5 speed 4wd RARE!
2013 Ford Flex Limited EB with water/meth
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
2006 Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 70k miles (sold) :'-(
2003 Escape XLT 3.0L AWD 106k miles (sold)
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4wd (traded for Wagoneer)
DarkStone06
 
Posts: 102
E-C LEVEL 2
Congratulations on reaching 100 posts!
Joined: January 31st, 2013, 3:15 pm
Location: Junction City, Kansas
My vehicle: 2005 Tribute 2.3L 5 speed 4WD


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