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2005 Ford Escape - Engine bucks only between 1500 - 2000 rpm

5K views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  tomw 
#1 ·
2005 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 DOHC - starts and idles fine. Good power up to about 1500 rpm and then again above 2000 rpm. Problem does not exist outside of this range. Pressing the gas pedal is when the symptoms show up within that range. If I let go of the gas pedal and it is in that range it will not buck. No engine codes show up.

When it is bucking within that range occasionally the Theft light will come on with a notice of no power slightly but the car will keep going.

I have done the following to try to assess and fix the issue with no changes to the actual problem:

- Replaced Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, ICV (Idle Control Value) and Gasket, EGR Value, Inner Manifold Gaskets, Spark Plugs, Coil-on-Plug Boots, TPS(Throttle Position Sensor), Air Filter and the PCV Valve

- Cleaned Throttle Body and MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) with the proper cleaner, tried using different fuel octanes and fuel cleaners as well

Have used both a mechanic code reader/live data tool along with my own BlueDriver code reader but nothing is coming up out of the ordinary.

Another thing I have noticed is when I punch down on the gas pedal to the floor in order to gain quick speed I do feel some slight hesitation spurts where, in my opinion, feels like fuel is having issues getting through but you would think that some sort of code would show up.

I'm stumped at this point and instead of throwing more money towards additional parts and taking it back to the mechanic again (they were unable to find the issue the first time) I though I would try here.
 
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#3 ·
It sounds like you have replaced everything ignition, fuel and air related that would be a usual suspect. I have only a few long shot things to check. First you mentioned the theft light coming on. Have you tried using forscan to scan all the other modules for codes? It seems like you might find a code in the instrument cluster (IC) since it does the anti-theft stuff and syncs with the PCM to allow the engine to start.

The only other big thing that I can recommend is to check the PCM for signs of corrosion. And check all of the ground lugs under the hood for corrosion while you are at it. Both of those could cause un-explained issues.
 
#5 ·
Fuel pressure regulator...
Fuel pressure sending unit...
Fuel pump / sending unit / pickup 'sock' filter...
Fuel pump 'driver module'...

The electronics of the driver module diddle with power to the pump to diddle with fuel pressure... noted (recognized & reported to computer) by the fuel pressure sending unit.
Report incorrect pressure... Fail to enable the pump to deliver based on ...
I would want to measure the fuel pressure continuously... and check delivery volume.

Does it feel as if you can 'pump' or push/release/push the gas pedal and it has no response? As if running out of fuel? Describe?
tom
 
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