Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

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Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - May 25th, 2020, 2:04 pm

2010 Escape Limited v6:

So I saw my spare tire hoist "hole" where one should insert the tire wrench end to rotate to get the spare tire down. It was NOT a hole anymore. filled with Rust, it looked like. I don't know exactly how much or how bad. didn't have time to try at the time, but it is probably bad. The tire jack and tools set looks like it has never been touched so I am assuming the tire hoist has never been moved.
Before I try, i thought I'd gather some knowledge first.

- what is the best way to try and get the rust out of the hole and get the hoist to work? any and all advice is welcome
- If I do get the tire hoist to work, what can I do do keep the whole mechanism lubricated? What lubricants / products are best for this?
- There are replacements made by Dorman or I can get this part OEM on Ebay - but is this ALL I need? And how involved is replacing it? Can one DIY it?
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-75071-924-512.aspx
- Can the Escape fit a full size (17") wheel and tire in the original spare location? (I have serached and see this question asked but didn't see any conclusive answers)
- If it helps to answer my questions better, here's a video showing the spare tire hoist/setup on an escape:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DihOzibILBQ
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby raysfan - May 26th, 2020, 1:29 am

If that hole is filled in with rust, to start out you can error on the gentle side and try a pick set. These are sharp pointed steel rods mounted to a handle that come in a set of 4 configurations, a straight one, a 90 degree one, a hook one and one that has a turn with a tiny hook at the end. I think a pick set is about 8 bucks at Harbor Freight Tools. If that gets you in, your could finish off with a narrow wire "bottle style" brush mounted to a drill.

If this were me, I would go right for the drastic measure. I would get a drill bit matched to the width (not length) of the tool end and start drilling out the rust. I would probably start in the dead center and then work on elongating that hole until the length of the hole matches the length of the tool end. If yours looks as rusty as the one in that video you referenced, I would hit all the moving parts with some PB Blaster or other rust penetrate before lowering the hoist. Good luck.
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - May 26th, 2020, 6:44 pm

Thank you!

I ordered a set of 4 picks, just like you described. Already have PB blaster and WD 40.
Do not own a power drill (yet), will try pick method probably sometime this week and update.
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby raysfan - June 5th, 2020, 12:08 am

Any updates yet? Just wondering how you made out with this.
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - June 14th, 2020, 11:30 am

raysfan wrote:Any updates yet? Just wondering how you made out with this.


So i finally got to work on the hole last night . Went at it with a pick set and PB blaster and screwdriver etc.
I don't have a before pic - just imagine a rust filled hole with NO view of the rectangle shaped slot.
from that i got to this level. As it was dark I did NOT yet try to lower spare or insert jack yet. (dealing with a bigger issue of clogged sunroof drain pipe)

Hopefully it is good enough to accept jack handle and I will update again. I did spray the middle area with PB blaster where the tire is held to the body and the butterfly thing.
Image
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby raysfan - June 15th, 2020, 1:34 am

Looks good! I am sure it will accept the tool end. At this point, I would hit that with either some Rustoleum brand "Rusty Metal Primer". These are available everywhere from hardware stores to the big chain auto parts stores. Expect to spend less that $5. It comes in spray can but that would be too much taping off of the areas not to be painted. I would spray some in a throw away plastic or old Big Gulp cup and use a small paint brush to paint it. Or I would paint it with some 'rust converter'.

For that clogged sunroof drain, the easiest way to tackle that is with compressed air. Open the sunroof all the way. The drains are in the corners of the front of the sunroof. Get about 4-6 inches of small vinyl hose or vacuum hose. Stick it in there and with compressed air (finding a source of compressed air is probably the hard part if you don't have a compressor) blow it through.

If the compressed air can't clear it, you are going to have to stick something down there. Much like a 'plumbers snake' goes down a toilet. What is perfect for this is an old speedometer cable. It flexes but it rigid almost like a mini toilet snake. But almost no one has one of these in their tool box unless they used to work on automotive A/C systems. Speedo cables are perfect for unclogging an A/C Evaporator Drain. Never had to worry about puncturing the evap core!

If you can't round up a speedo cable, you can try fishing some mechanics wire down there.
Good luck. PS: Don't use Drain-O! :yes:
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - June 15th, 2020, 7:31 pm

raysfan wrote:Looks good! I am sure it will accept the tool end. At this point, I would hit that with either some Rustoleum brand "Rusty Metal Primer". These are available everywhere from hardware stores to the big chain auto parts stores. Expect to spend less that $5. It comes in spray can but that would be too much taping off of the areas not to be painted. I would spray some in a throw away plastic or old Big Gulp cup and use a small paint brush to paint it. Or I would paint it with some 'rust converter'.

For that clogged sunroof drain, the easiest way to tackle that is with compressed air. Open the sunroof all the way. The drains are in the corners of the front of the sunroof. Get about 4-6 inches of small vinyl hose or vacuum hose. Stick it in there and with compressed air (finding a source of compressed air is probably the hard part if you don't have a compressor) blow it through.

If the compressed air can't clear it, you are going to have to stick something down there. Much like a 'plumbers snake' goes down a toilet. What is perfect for this is an old speedometer cable. It flexes but it rigid almost like a mini toilet snake. But almost no one has one of these in their tool box unless they used to work on automotive A/C systems. Speedo cables are perfect for unclogging an A/C Evaporator Drain. Never had to worry about puncturing the evap core!

If you can't round up a speedo cable, you can try fishing some mechanics wire down there.
Good luck. PS: Don't use Drain-O! :yes:

Thanks! That's a GREAT tip re: painting the hole with Rustoleum. I already have a can of this: "Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer Spray, Black". Is that also OK or should I get the exact one you mentioned? If I can get the spare down, I am going to get surface rust off the hoist mechanism and the spare wheel as much as I can with wire brush, and spray paint it with Rustoleum too.

(Re: the sunroof drain. That's exactly my plan: I got speedometer cable AND 0.095 Trimmer Line (wee whacker line). I am gonna try both if needed. I am reserving compressed air for the last method as I have read it can dislocate the drain line inside the A pillar trim, etc, if air iis too strong. I am scared of that. I hope that the trimmer line/speedo cable will work, but before that I need to get the driver's side carpet and the jute backing padding dry - got most of the water out with a ShopVac. Now running fans, dehumidifier, dehumidifying packets of Damp-Rid, etc right now. I might have to remove driver's seat to get it to dry really well or perhaps even cut that padding section out and dry OUT of the car.
Somehow I want to get that done before fixing the drain tube.. Thanks again for tips)
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby raysfan - June 17th, 2020, 10:47 pm

The 'reformer' spray you have is fine. Just need to get that bare exposed metal protected.

Excellent tip to use trimmer line!
It won't scratch the paint. If one gets to aggressive with a speedo cable, it could scratch.

The guys who are blowing out their drains and dislodging the tube are using too much pressure. I was able to clear mine with with my limiter/regulator set to only 15 psi. I may have only had a fragile clog. If that would not have worked, I would have switched to the speedometer cable. I didn't know about the tube dislodging. Good point! I was worried about bursting the tube, never considered it becoming disconnected. If one thinks about a stubborn clog and one is poking at it hard enough, won't that also dislodge the tube? Maybe a speedometer cable with a rough end is the way to go for a stubborn clog. You can twist the cable and let the rough end sort of drill through the clog or break it into small pieces.

Other note regarding drain. Despite me taking good care of my Escape, when the drain got clogged on mine, it took a while before it overflowed enough to get my interior wet enough to notice. So my sunroof glass sat in a pool of water. The front corner of the metal 'cage' that surrounds my glass has a 1 inch long rust bubble at the passenger side front corner. I need to take care of that pronto!!!
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - June 19th, 2020, 7:56 pm

raysfan wrote:The 'reformer' spray you have is fine. Just need to get that bare exposed metal protected.

Excellent tip to use trimmer line!
It won't scratch the paint. If one gets to aggressive with a speedo cable, it could scratch.

The guys who are blowing out their drains and dislodging the tube are using too much pressure. I was able to clear mine with with my limiter/regulator set to only 15 psi. I may have only had a fragile clog. If that would not have worked, I would have switched to the speedometer cable. I didn't know about the tube dislodging. Good point! I was worried about bursting the tube, never considered it becoming disconnected. If one thinks about a stubborn clog and one is poking at it hard enough, won't that also dislodge the tube? Maybe a speedometer cable with a rough end is the way to go for a stubborn clog. You can twist the cable and let the rough end sort of drill through the clog or break it into small pieces.

Other note regarding drain. Despite me taking good care of my Escape, when the drain got clogged on mine, it took a while before it overflowed enough to get my interior wet enough to notice. So my sunroof glass sat in a pool of water. The front corner of the metal 'cage' that surrounds my glass has a 1 inch long rust bubble at the passenger side front corner. I need to take care of that pronto!!!


I got some Rust-oleum enamel paint too which also has rust-stop in it. I think I will put a light coat of Rust Reform, let it dry then a thin coat of the enamel pain for added protection. Might have to use q tip or small artist brush.
Then if I get the spare down, will give it wire brush treatment and same 2-step Rust-oleum finish.

Finally the carpet and backing (after removal of driver's seat and multiple methods of drying) is dry. Tomorrow will install the seat and perhaps also tackle drain tube: I also don't know exactly when it got clogged - I assume even before I bought it and then first 10 days after I got it it was subject to HEAVY rain and storms almost every day. Drove AND sat outside in them. With only the driver's side being wet and only the driver's side drain tube failing the drain test, I am hoping that IS the cause .... we will see.
I will start with mildest of methods (trimmer line) and work myself up to Speedometer cable and then if that doesn't work then electric air "duster" in short bursts. I don't have regulated air and that electric "duster" has a great tiny nozzle that will fir the hole BUT i am afraid it is too forceful. Hope I don't have to use it. I won't poke too much with the trimmer line or speedo cable. If it doesn't become unclogged, I might have to take it somewhere. I think also a bit of hot/soapy (or clear?) water slowly down the drain tube while "poking"/feeding the line will help.

Hope your sunroof tray rust issue will be easy to fix - please let me know how it goes. I am going to take a good look at my sunroof when i do the drain-unclog. Got some silicone spray to lube the parts as best as I could and it will hopefully protect a bit from future rust. Hoping to clean up the "tray" as best as i can, too.

Will update soon for sure, and thanks for all your help so far.
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Re: Spare Tire Hoist questions - 2010 Escape

Postby Illyria69 - June 26th, 2020, 9:45 pm

Sunroof Drain tubes Update: SUCCESS !
Finally got the driver's seat in 2 days ago after fully drying carpet and tackled the drain tube (driver's side) today: cleared the clog with weed trimmer line and hot water. Only had to struggle a bit at the start then it suddenly cleared! It was a joy to see it finally draining! Gonna check drain tubes every 6 months from now on and clean sunroof tray.
HOPEFULLY this (and perhaps several years of it) is what created wet driver's carpet - will do the car wash/rain test soon and update.
Image

So much crud (paste of water/pollen/dirt/dust) on the sunroof tray - no wonder the tubes clog up! cleaned area well after vaccuming loose crud off. Crud is hard to spot because sunroof tray is black and crud also black paste.
Tray finally clean and free of nasty caked stuff: (rest of sunroof looked pretty good - cleaned the weather strips and edges too).
Crud pic and clean pic:
Image Image

Got the Spare tire hoist to work. Will update again with some pics soon after some "finishing touches".
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