Talk about anything related to your 2017 - Present Ford Escape/ New Ford Kuga here!
October 5th, 2019, 5:57 pm
My wife is the main driver of our 2017 Escape with the 1.5 GTDI engine (and 49,000 miles). She drives it more or less like a grandma. I am much more aggressive and more likely to have it under boost and for longer.
I have my car (2012 Fusion Sport AWD) on stands changing the PTU lube (it is coming out in blobs from the vent), so I had to drive the Escape.
First thing I notice is I can feel the engine. It isn't as smooth as the car it replaced, a 2000 Grand Marquis, but it wasn't too bad. It wasn't obvious until it did the auto stop thing at a light and stopped shaking. It also is not accelerating like it should (and not just because I went from 265hp to 181hp).
I had to get on the interstate, on a cork screw on ramp, so you have to hustle, speed limit is 65 so 75 is the norm. It is a pretty good amount of time to be at WOT as it is up hill. Once I get it to around 75 or 80 and merge (reasonable traffic, you can look back and see where you can fit in in time to slow down if needed) the CEL started blinking and it wouldn't accelerate for anything.
Last time this happened (within the first 200 miles of owning it...) I had to stop to get the misfire to stop. I was moving right to exit when it magically came back and the AC came back on.
Now no more shaking and it has reasonable acceleration.
I think I will use the CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner on it. I am not sure how safe it is for the turbo, but it says it is for cleaning the turbo (hot or cold side, unsure). I don't have a borescope to check the valves, but suspect carbon build up.
I think it is too hot to be the charge air (inter) cooler freezing up.
October 6th, 2019, 8:00 am
Since the Check Engine Light came on, I would take it to the dealer. This vehicle should be covered by the emissions warranty (5 year, 50,000 mile).
If you don't want to do that, all the big chain auto parts stores around here (Advance Auto, Autozone, O'Riely's) have boreoscopes available as part of their tool loaner program. Also, since the Check Engine Light flashed, there will be a pending code stored in the Engine Control Unit (ECU). I would start by retrieving that code. I don't know if the cleaners you proposed are safe or not. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
October 6th, 2019, 8:55 am
I have a bluetooth OBD II adapter and Torque, I will get the code if it is left as historical. Last time it happened it was a p0300 misfire (and this one will be some misfire since it was blinking). Last time it loaded up the cats with raw fuel and stunk like a sewer, didn't get that this time.
Funny thing is the check engine light is so subtle on the IC that I never see it, but FordPass sends an alert to my phone. Since it was running like a dog and my phone gave an alert, I looked specifically at the place the check engine light is and saw it blinking.
I have to read the back of the CRC Intake Valve and Turbo cleaner, but it is created for GTDI and GDI engines that don't get fuel washing over the intake valves, specifically mention turbo. Just not sure if they mean hot or cool side, and if it goes in before or after the turbo. I have had good luck with seafoam and more modern chemicals on older non turbo/non direct injection engines.
At not even 50k miles I wonder how that bodes for my expected 350k miles before being done with the car. I know it needs a timing belt at something around 125/150k miles, I hope it survives for 2 of them.
Whom ever the Service Advisor talked to last time said "well, don't go full throttle for 20 seconds and it won't happen again". True.
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