Update. Pulled codes, got nothing like i expected. PO128 for coolant temp sensor. I knew this one.

rest were coil pack codes, (P0351-P0354) I had the coils unplugged, ans cranked with them unplugged clearing the cylinders of excess oil and fuel.

Two body codes B1318 and B1676, both low battery codes from running the battery down while cranking.

No codes to lead to my issue, all above are codes i expected.

The car did start today, still running very rough. once i shut it off however, it would not restart.

May drain fuel and see if i by chance go bad gas, but it has been a few days prior to the issue when it was last filled up, i would have expected bad gas to be nearly immediate issue but worth a shot. Fuel pump is only a couple months old BTW, and no port on the rail to verify pressure.

Any suggestions?

 

I'm sure this won't be of much help but I put an Airtex pump in my 04, and it only lasted a few months. Then it was hard starting after a hot soak, down on power a bit and lean codes. It never ran rough, but this is a V6.

Did you clean and/or inspect the coil boots for arcing? If there was oil in the wells, it needs a new valve cover gasket but for the short term good (non arcing) boots will work.

John

 

Yeah, i don't have full faith in the fuel pump but can't verify without a port to check it.

i assumed on the valve cover gasket.

Boots did not seem to be arcing when i was checking for spark. Might replace them all anyway just as a precaution as i am doing the cover gasket.

 

If the boots got the oil dip treatment, it is likely they are allowing arcing when installed. How old are the plugs? Is the gap wide, or did you check? The FoMoCo 'suggested' interval is ~100k miles for plugs, but that is stretching it. I'd bet plugs with ~70k are out of spec as far as gap. Add a wide gap, and lubed boots, and you may just be having arcing all occurring in the well. You'd likely not be able to see it.
Were I doing the job, I'd replace the gaskets that allow oil into the plug wells, replace the plugs if they have miles on them, and replace the boots with new.
I would also check my work previously done. It is rare for a running engine to decide it's time for a break on its own. Generally, if it was running Tuesday, it will also run Wednesday, unless someone has replaced parts, and possibly nudged something loose or connected Tab A to slot B instead of slot A.... more or less. It is easy to move things around, and something that was hanging on by a thread, such as a chafed or flexed wire, can be 'opened' by moving it around. Look for areas where wires must flex as the engine moves and check for fatigue breaks in the conductor or chafed/worn insulation that may ground that which should not be grounded and vice versa.
tom