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Adding Heated Seats to 2011 Tribute/Escape

13K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  aabry  
#1 ·
Hello. I'm a new member and I recently added heated seats to our 2011 Tribute. I found a few articles around the internet, including here, but I thought I would share for others who might want details for a 2011.

First of all, the kit was a $99 special from ebay. I looked closely at a dozen sellers and they all appear to carry the exact same kit. It comes with 4 heating pads, wiring, 2 toggle switches and misc. connectors. The quality of the wiring and switches is average but they do use connectors between everything so you can remove the seats, console etc. without tearing it all out. The switches are high-off-low but I dont notice the difference in low. They are both warm.

I tried the passenger side without removing the seat and the driver side with removing the seat. Remove the seats! It is possible but much more efficient to remove the seats. You will need a large torx socket for some of the seat bolts. I forget the size but maybe T50?

Kit and contents (single kit shown)
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The top of the console is all snap-plugs. The bezel prys out carefully.
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This is the bottom of the powered drivers seat. Both seats have one large electrical plug that needs to be unplugged prior to removing.
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The cloth covers are attached with fold over plastic hooks. These are tricky but you'll figure them out after a closer look.
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The inside cover hooks are unpinned with pliers and a flatblade screwdriver.
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This is the foam cushion. Note the velcro that positions the seat cover. These are easily ripped from the foam so be careful!
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Slide in the heat pads, the back of the seat is the same process. Fighting the seat cover is challenging but fun.
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Route the pigtails away from the seat sliders. Zip tie wherever possible.
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After you replace the two seats you need to search out a 12V source and install the switches. I used a fuse tap and an unused fuse location in the console fuse panel. You may choose a switched source or constant. Beware of killing your battery if you leave them on when using a constant source.
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There is a nice threaded stud in the floorboard that is a perfect ground. Just clean the paint off. Sorry but it use a metric nut which the hardware store has.
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To mount the switches I would recommend a step drill. It makes a very clean cut and deburrs the plastic for you.
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This is the location I used. There are many others.
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In summary the kit installed easily in about 3 hours on my carport. It was obviously cheaper than the dealer upgrade. As for performance, these pads get very warm and almost hot on the high setting. They are warmer than the OEM heated seats in my F350.
 
#2 ·
Wow, great first post, RedBKM!!

Glad you got your heated seats and ....

:welcome: :welcome: :welcome:
 
#5 ·
It looks like you have them installed in a easily accessible location with MINIMAL hands off wheel and "heads down" time. Also ergonomically correct and easy to identify the position of the switch and setting. Kudos to your technical and safety minded post. If you want to recoup some of the investment....install a .25 cent dispenser for visitors.......set it to a five minute timer.......LOL!!!!

Good Job I have seen those kits on eBay but always held off because I thought they were too difficult to install.
 
#6 ·
My wife was uneasy about tearing the seats apart in a brand new car but she warmed up to the idea.

I forgot to mention that I couldn't fit my fuse tap into the OEM heated seats fuse location. If you can find one that fits then use that circuit because its switched 12V.

Happy New Year
 
#7 ·
Just did this the other day, wish I would have seen your post first.

Only thing I'd add is that if you want to splice/solder your own fuse in, the accessory wire is the purple w/green stripe that is above the fuse box. *edit*: Note this is on the 2008, not sure about other years.
I was adding other accessories at the same time so didn't want to use a fuse tap.

Mine was 4 sets of 11x18 pads just like this from ebay (we have two FEH's) for $139. These are larger & heat up faster than the OEM seat heaters I've had in the past (Accord & Eclipse)... very, very nice and you can't feel them in the seat at all if positioned correctly. Took me about 2 hrs to install the first one, much faster after that.
 
#8 ·
MDSCAPE12 said:
Excellent write up and good photos for first post........I have the factory heaters but the only drawback is that there is only two positions...on off...I would like there to be a off/low/high but it is what it is.... Welcome aboard!!!
That surprises me. The wife's '10 Edge has High, Low, Off.
 
#10 ·
Thank you for posting this how-to. I installed mine today. Your write-up was very easy to follow. First seat took me a little longer than the second. It was easier once I knew how to remove and reattach the seat covers. After that it was super easy. Took me a little over 3 hours, but I always tend to triple check things. At any rate, they're installed and work great. I used the fuse jumpers - 2 of them, one for each seat - to connect power to the seats.

Thanks again for posting this. :thumb:
 
#11 ·
As a follow up, does anyone have any idea on how it could be wired to not be "always on"? As in, wire it to turn off when the vehicle turns off? I haven't had any issues so far, but I have on occasion, when in a hurry running errands, left them on. Thankfully I was only a few minutes each time and it wasn't long enough to kill the battery.

I wonder if the wiring for heated seats is there somewhere hidden from the fuse box that could be tapped into? I'm pretty sure that it's not under the seats, as it appeared that all that was there was the wiring for the air bag sensors.

Edit:

I did find this for my 2009 Mariner:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repair ... 3f80eb9a12

If I'm reading this correctly, the solid grey is the wire that is hot when in run or accessory. Now, I wonder if it is there or not, and where I'd find it... also, I wonder if anything else is connected to that line?
 
#12 ·
Looked for solid gray wire.. Think I found it but it looked awfully thin. So I abandoned that route. Decided to try what divehsv posted a while back and tapped into the purple wire with a green stripe that is above the fuse box (it is above the fuse box going into a grey connector into the SJB - you have to disconnect connector to be able to work with the wire). I added an in-line fuse (20A) and from that connected the heated seat wires.

This worked perfectly. The switches will only turn on if the key is turned to either: accessory, on, or run. And also turns off when the vehicle is turned off. Exactly what I wanted. No longer have to worry about turning them off or coming back to a dead battery. Happy with the results. :thumb:
 
#13 ·
One year later...

The seats still work fine. My wife works the night shift and uses them every morning. She left one on and killed the battery once. I had to move to a switched source in the fuse panel.

My F350 has OEM heated seats and the ebay kit is much warmer. I tested the two with a thermocouple and the add-on kit is 15 degrees hotter.
 
#15 ·
pentavolvo said:
do you know if the kit you got was carbon fiber? i am searching ebay looking for a kit for our escape
The kit I got off of eBay was carbon fiber. $60 or so from what I recall. Maybe a little more or less. Most are carbon fiber anymore. If they aren't, you don't want them. The only other type is the old wire type, and since the wires are so thin, they tend to break and wear out faster than carbon fiber.
 
#17 ·
Reviving this thread!! I have an '05 XLT and I just purchased heating elements for the front leather seats. I've never done this before, it doesn't look difficult, I'm mechanically inclined and have an electrical degree so...I'm really not expecting anything terribly difficult. I'm reading that people are running down their batteries from using the stock heated seat fuse taps?? Any experience on what other tap to use before I go searching? Any tips or tricks? Thanks in advance