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Hoping for a little help. 2011 Escape XLT 3.0 2wd

Front brakes are shot. Dealer wants $375, but I got parts for $150. I've done brakes on my older vehicles, so I figured this one can't be much different.

I went to jack up the Ford this weekend and followed the owner's manual. Once I started putting pressure at the recommended location, the bracket started to bend. This is the bracket the lower control arm is mounted to. Luckily the bent bracket didn't affect the drivability.

I then moved to the frame after watching a video on where to jack. Odd thing, as soon as I started putting pressure on the frame it bent the frame! I couldn't believe it. I've jacked up tons of cars with my jack on the frame and it never bent/caved in. I immediately let the Ford down, but now I'm not sure what to do. Did Ford really make the frame of this vehicle this soft? I'm using a Craftsman ½ ton jack with matching stands. No issues like this on my 2008 Lincoln Town car and my son's 2005 Chevy Trailblazer.

Any suggestions?
 

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pjrocco said:
Hoping for a little help. 2011 Escape XLT 3.0 2wd

Front brakes are shot. Dealer wants $375, but I got parts for $150. I've done brakes on my older vehicles, so I figured this one can't be much different.

I went to jack up the Ford this weekend and followed the owner's manual. Once I started putting pressure at the recommended location, the bracket started to bend. This is the bracket the lower control arm is mounted to. Luckily the bent bracket didn't affect the drivability.

I then moved to the frame after watching a video on where to jack. Odd thing, as soon as I started putting pressure on the frame it bent the frame! I couldn't believe it. I've jacked up tons of cars with my jack on the frame and it never bent/caved in. I immediately let the Ford down, but now I'm not sure what to do. Did Ford really make the frame of this vehicle this soft? I'm using a Craftsman ½ ton jack with matching stands. No issues like this on my 2008 Lincoln Town car and my son's 2005 Chevy Trailblazer.

Any suggestions?
Best thing to do is to equal out the force of the lift and that is done by placing a 12"x12"x3/4 piece of plywood on top of the jack head and then place under where the lower control arm attaches to the frame. This is what I have done for 35+ years and never an issue. Hope this helps. :thumb:
 

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What about lifting points with a Hi-lift or trail jack? Pretty much nothing eh?
 

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I have a pair of hockey pucks that I glued together for my jack head. I have seen many posts on other boards about using them. They are $1 used at play it again sports. I lift at the front control arm/subframe bolt, and the rear control arm emergency jack point.

I use another hockey puck on top of the jack stand. There's a broad spot forward of the pinch weld in front. There is another just rearward of the pinch weld in the back. You just have to keep them centered.

Here's the front passenger side.

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Not sure if this was already covered or not, maybe I missed it, but it's jack related. Anyone can give me some advice if they've ever raised the engine/trans to change mounts? 2and gen v6 awd.
 

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I changed my mounts last springs. I used a 2x6 to disperse the weight. I'm 78% sure I jacked the car up but I might have not bother with it. I would highly suggest jacking it up off the front tires to avoid having to apply more pressure with the Jack due to the suspension.

Go easy and slow and you shouldn't have any issues.

Watch a youTube video on it or two. It gave me a better idea on how much pressure to use and how to beat disperse the weight.
 
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