When the gauges sweep, it's a sign of low voltage, so you have a battery problem or alternator problem. Clean the terminals first before testing.

 

When the gauges sweep, it's a sign of low voltage, so you have a battery problem or alternator problem. Clean the terminals first before testing.

I could Google this, but since I'm here I'll ask - should I take the battery out of the car for a more reliable test, or is leaving it in ok? The terminals have been cleaned and dielectric grease applied. I still haven't ruled out the battery. Just don't want to drop $80+ on a guess.

 

Autozone or Advance auto will test it for free.

 

Heck even Ford's Quick Lane will usually do a free test on the battery.

 

Autozone or Advance auto will test it for free.

Thanks, I took it to O'Reilly Auto Parts on Sunday 9/7/14 and both the battery and alternator tested out just fine. They tested it three times. That is what prompted me to sign up for an account at Escape City and post here.

I just edited my first post #1 to clarify this as the way I wrote it earlier might have been confusing.

 

Did anyone scan it for codes with something better than a parts store OBD scanner (such as Ford IDS)? Looks like you did a fairly good job of ruling out the usual electrical culprits.

If you wanna do your own scanning and don't own such a tool, consider the link in my signature.

 

Did anyone scan it for codes with something better than a parts store OBD scanner (such as Ford IDS)? Looks like you did a fairly good job of ruling out the usual electrical culprits.

If you wanna do your own scanning and don't own such a tool, consider the link in my signature.

Interesting! I have a VAG-COM KKL 409.1 OBD2 USB cable hanging around - I'll see if that is ELM327 compatible. Could there possibly be engine codes even if there is no CEL?

 

Did anyone scan it for codes with something better than a parts store OBD scanner (such as Ford IDS)? Looks like you did a fairly good job of ruling out the usual electrical culprits.

If you wanna do your own scanning and don't own such a tool, consider the link in my signature.

Interesting! I have a VAG-COM KKL 409.1 OBD2 USB cable hanging around - I'll see if that is ELM327 compatible. Could there possibly be engine codes even if there is no CEL?

Perhaps there could be some pending codes for the CEL--I'm not an expert on OBD theory, simply a guy who knows how to run an application. :rockon:

But at this point, I'm curious to see what other vehicle modules have logged and consider a problem. Remember: an ELM 327 can get more than OBD codes--it can reach modules more directly, including PCM, ABS, yadda-yadda-yadda. :yes:

 

Sure sounds like you need a Battery. Yes it might show good when you drive it to get tested. It has not been setting overnight or all day. It has had a chance to charge up on the way to the Auto store. If you have another car that you can swap batteries with? Good luck.
Don

 

Took the battery out and had it tested. Checked out just fine. This was after it had sat all night. I took off the driver side kick panel looking for Terminal C263 but I can't find it. I did find a bunch of wires that have vampire clamps on them. Which is strange and not professional. I took some pictures. Let me know if this looks OEM.

Also, if someone could PLEASE help me find Terminal C263 inside and Terminal C134 in the engine compartment.
Please see this link to understand what I am talking about: http://www.underhoodservice.com/ford-te ... h-mil-on/#

Pics:

 

What is all that mess? You must have an aftermarket alarm, remote start or aftermarket audio in that vehicle.

 

All the auto parts store is checking if the alternator is outputting voltage. You need to check it for AC ripple. These symptoms have been brought up many times, and it seems to always be an alternator, or battery.

 

What is all that mess? You must have an aftermarket alarm, remote start or aftermarket audio in that vehicle.

Nope. Perhaps the PO did? Not sure. But your comment definitely confirms what I was suspecting - the wiring is a mess. I suspect the problems I am having may have something to do with this? It is extremely hard to tell. It's not running well...

 

All the auto parts store is checking if the alternator is outputting voltage. You need to check it for AC ripple. These symptoms have been brought up many times, and it seems to always be an alternator, or battery.

How do I check for AC ripple? An oscilloscope? Per the first post, the alternator was replaced last year. Perhaps it went bad in a short amount of time?

 

What is all that mess? You must have an aftermarket alarm, remote start or aftermarket audio in that vehicle.

There is no way that rat's nest is is OEM. I'm not surprised there are electrical ghosts. That looks like a Frankenstein monster!

 

What is all that mess? You must have an aftermarket alarm, remote start or aftermarket audio in that vehicle.

There is no way that rat's nest is is OEM. I'm not surprised there are electrical ghosts. That looks like a Frankenstein monster!

Damn... ok. I feel like if I try screwing with anything under there I'm gonna make it worse. I don't even know WHERE to begin to sort everything out. My guess is, if I took it to a shop, it would be hours and hours of labor and $$$$$ to get it figured out.

Straight up. Should I trade it in? I wouldn't dare sell it to a private party. I'm not that kind of person.

 

You can check for ac ripple with a multimeter if you have one. Measure the dc voltage and see if it's in spec. Switch the meter over to ac and measure the voltage there, it should be very low. Maybe the alternator is bad and was replaced with a rebuilt one and it is now bad or has ac ripple. That wiring may be a mess but don't go cutting if out or messing with it. They look ok, if done properly and not sloppy i would leave it alone. Maybe try to see where any wires are going, i'm guessing remote start. Maybe you can go to a place that installs stereos or remote start (tell them you might be interested in buying one) and have them stick their head under the dash and see if one was previously installed.

 

You're not gonna like this post. Just guessing. After re-reading the entire post, you said the seat bolts were rusty. I'm gonna guess this vehicle was a flood car. To me that means electrical gremlins. Follow some of those wires and see where they go, maybe a black box for remote start. If they just go back into the harness, appears somebody was trying to fix this before for a electrical problem.

 

You're not gonna like this post. Just guessing. After re-reading the entire post, you said the seat bolts were rusty. I'm gonna guess this vehicle was a flood car. To me that means electrical gremlins. Follow some of those wires and see where they go, maybe a black box for remote start. If they just go back into the harness, appears somebody was trying to fix this before for a electrical problem.

You know, I figured if it was a flood car it would have been reported on the Carfax. That's why I just suspected being a New York car it was rusty from that. I wonder if it DID go through a flood and was never reported. Who knows. This car is taking up too much time as is. I have a 12 month old and digging through wires for hours isn't an option anymore. I really like the escape. A lot of bang for your buck. And I know it's not the car, just the prior circumstances that have led to what is going on with it now. Still, hard pill to swallow.

 

You're not gonna like this post. Just guessing. After re-reading the entire post, you said the seat bolts were rusty. I'm gonna guess this vehicle was a flood car. To me that means electrical gremlins. Follow some of those wires and see where they go, maybe a black box for remote start. If they just go back into the harness, appears somebody was trying to fix this before for a electrical problem.

You know, I figured if it was a flood car it would have been reported on the Carfax. That's why I just suspected being a New York car it was rusty from that. I wonder if it DID go through a flood and was never reported. Who knows. This car is taking up too much time as is. I have a 12 month old and digging through wires for hours isn't an option anymore. I really like the escape. A lot of bang for your buck. And I know it's not the car, just the prior circumstances that have led to what is going on with it now. Still, hard pill to swallow.

Unfortunately, unless it's reported to an insurance company or a police report was filed it will not show up on a CARFAX report. I had numerous vehicles come in to be re-certified as Certified Pre-Owned and, while they had clean CARFAX reports, I found that they had been in horrific accidents, floods, etc. I remember one car that we got that would randomly start on its own without the key or anyone else present in the vehicle. It's wiring looked a lot like the pictures you posted here. At some point someone had attempted to install a remote start and/or alarm and didn't do it right. So, unless you are willing to spend hours removing the vamp splices, repairing the factory harnesses, tracing the added wires, or are willing to pay a shop for several hours of diagnostics you may want to cut your losses. Would it be possible to take it back to where you bought it, explain the situation, and possibly get your money back or at least an even trade for another vehicle?

 

So, I tested out the alternator. I followed the DIY here: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-ind ... ternator-1

I checked the battery without engine on, and it was around 12 volts. I started the engine, turned on the radio, headlights, wipers, full blast A/C and measured the battery voltage. Initially the battery was reading about 10 volts then it quickly jumped up to 14.5 volts and just stayed there between 14 and 14.5 volts. When it dipped to 14 it was because the engine was sputtering (like it always does, and is getting worse). It's my best guess the alternator is just fine and there is something else weird going on. I think it's time to unload this thing...

 

I was removing coil pack #3 yesterday afternoon and I was a little concerned with this. Can anyone give me an idea what I am looking at? Thanks.

 

I'm guessing the valve cover is leaking a bit and picking up debris from the belt.

 

I'm guessing the valve cover is leaking a bit and picking up debris from the belt.

Hmmmm.... valve cover gasket was recently replaced because it was leaking and causing it to smoke a bit. I guess the problem is not solved.

 

Not sure if anyone has ever had to replace the rear wiper motor, but getting the wiper off is a royal pain in the butt. I eventually had to just cut mine off. Surprisingly enough, the coilpack was easy to get out. Took me about an hour, but I could probably do it in half the time now, especially since I know what I'm doing.

To go back a bit though, I took it in to the Ford dealership to get the recall stuff taken care of (sticking throttle causing you to die & A-arm falling off causing you to die). While it was there, I had them do a deep scan of the computer for $110. They pulled up a coil pack #3 malfunction. When I asked why it never thew a CEL, they said that it was intermittent and so it never tripped the CEL. I dunno about that. The engine ran scary awful. Not sure how it wouldn't throw a CEL. Nevertheless, I changed Coil Pack #3 and it is running wonderfully again.

They could not figure out what was wrong with the gauge cluster sweeping and the battery light coming on. They think that because the wiper is broken that it may be pulling amps and causing weird gremlins. Not too sure about that... So, I am replacing the wiper in the hopes that is the problem. There is also a relay switch back there that is clicking on and off, and they think that is part of it. Basically, Ford doesn't have a clue and they wanted to charge me $384 to replace the rear wiper motor plus labor. Plus $580 to replace the ONE coil pack.

As I mentioned above, getting the wiper assembly off was extremely challenging and I decided to take the nuclear option and ruin the wiper. I used a hack saw, then pried until I got it to break apart. Even then it was STILL difficult to knock off the wiper rod. Oh, and right now I am soaking the 22mm nut because it is so corroded that I can't even budge it. I have a 1/2" ratchet and I would probably have to go to a cheater bar but it feels like the glass might break, so I PB Blasted it and I'll let it soak overnight. /sigh...

Anyway, here are some pics of my new nightmare: